How fine are the needles?

Acupuncture needles are solid, not hollow, and about the thickness of a hair. They’re far finer than the needles used for injections or blood tests, so they part the skin rather than cutting through it. That’s why there’s so little bleeding or bruising.

How many needles are used?

A Lite session uses around 40 to 50 needles. Most go in the face and neck, and a few in the hands and feet to help you relax.

A Deluxe session can use 100 or more. The extra needles are the tiny ones used for fine skin needling, which barely go below the surface.

What it feels like

As the needle goes in

A brief prick or pinch as it passes through the skin. It fades within a second or two.

Once it’s in place

Often nothing at all. Some people feel a dull ache, heaviness, warmth or tingling. These are normal, and usually a sign the needle is in the right place.

Occasionally, something sharper

Now and then a needle sits close to a tiny nerve or blood vessel and feels sharp or hot. Tell me straight away and I’ll move it or take it out. You never need to put up with it.

While the needles are in

The needles stay in for about 20 to 25 minutes. I dim the lights and give you a blanket, and many people doze off. Try to stay still, as moving can make a needle feel uncomfortable.

Taking the needles out

This is quick and painless. If there’s a small spot of blood, I press on it with a cotton bud. I take out the head and neck needles first, then the ones in your hands and feet. In a Deluxe session, the facial massage comes in between.

How to make it more comfortable

• Have a light meal an hour or so before, so you don’t feel light-headed.
• Tell me if you’re nervous. I’ll explain each step and go at your pace.
• Breathe slowly. A long, slow breath out as each needle goes in really helps.
• Let the area relax. Tense muscles make needles more noticeable.

Summing up

Facial acupuncture isn’t completely painless, but for most people it’s much easier than they expect, and many find it one of the most relaxing hours of their week.

For bruising and other side effects, read The side effects and downsides of facial cosmetic acupuncture. You can read more about treatment on my facial acupuncture page.

What facial acupuncture aims to do

Very fine needles are placed in the face, and a few in the body to help you relax. The tiny pricks in the skin are thought to prompt its natural repair processes, with more blood flow and more collagen, which keeps skin firm.

People often tell me their skin looks brighter and less puffy, and that fine lines look softer over time. Many also say they sleep better and feel calmer. The research on facial acupuncture is still limited, though, so I can’t promise a visible change.

Side effects

Discomfort

Many people expect it to hurt. In practice, most find it relaxing. The needles are about the width of a hair, and most feel like a light prick or nothing at all. A few, especially around the mouth and eyes, feel sharper for a second or two. There’s more on this in Does facial cosmetic acupuncture hurt?

Bruising

Small bruises happen in about 3 in every 100 treatments. They’re more likely around the eyes and under the jawline.

To keep the risk low, I avoid visible blood vessels, insert the needles gently, and press on each spot with a cotton bud as the needle comes out. If a bruise does appear, it’s usually small and easy to cover with make-up. Some people find arnica cream helps it fade.

A bruise on the face can take a while to fade, so avoid booking just before a big event.

Feeling emotional

A Lite session uses around 40 to 50 fine needles in the face and body, and a Deluxe session can use 100 or more. Most people feel calm and relaxed afterwards. Occasionally someone feels tearful or giddy for a few moments. If that happens, we pause until you feel settled.

Feeling tired or light-headed

Some people feel tired or a little light-headed afterwards, though this isn’t common. If you’re prone to feeling faint, ask someone to drive you to your first appointment, or come by public transport.

My aftercare page explains what’s normal after treatment and when to get advice.

Downsides

Facial acupuncture is very different from Botox, fillers or threading. It’s worth knowing what that means before you start.

The results are subtle

Nothing is injected and there’s no surgery. The treatment works with your body’s own processes, so any change is gradual and natural-looking. If you want a quick, dramatic change, another treatment may suit you better.

It takes time and money

It isn’t a one-off treatment. Many people have a series of 5 to 10 sessions, weekly or every two weeks, then a session every 4 to 6 weeks to keep things going. How many you need depends on your age, your skin and your general health.

If that’s more than you want, a monthly session can work well, or 3 to 5 sessions before an event such as a wedding. Bundles of 5 and 10 sessions cost less per session.

It isn’t suitable for everyone

Because the treatment uses a lot of needles, it isn’t right for everyone.

Is it right for you?

Facial acupuncture is a gentle, relaxing treatment that many people love. It can cause small bruises, and it takes time and a number of sessions. If you’re happy with a gradual, natural approach, it’s well worth trying.

You can read more on my facial acupuncture page.